Experimentation

After spending Christmas in the States, I arrived back in the DR with gifts in tow. I could not possibly have come back empty handed to a chorus of Dominicans asking, ¿Que me trajiste? (What did you bring me?). This is a phrase we volunteers hear more often than we would like. Sometimes after just a quick trip to the Capital for a meeting the local children will ask what we’ve brought back for them. A trip to the giant mall of a country that is the US would surely attract much ¿Que me trajiste?.

I obviously couldn’t bring something for everyone and focused my give-giving solely on my host family. I found many trinkets and toys in the US that would be perfect to momentarily peak the interest of local children with short attention spans while also buying things with few parts and little monetary value for when they were inevitably broken. I found crayons, kaleidoscopes, baseballs, candy, etc. And I bought some Christmas stockings for my host family in hopes of sharing some American customs and culture.

Since Dominicans do not traditionally exchange gifts on Christmas but on Three Kings or Epiphany Day (January 6^th), I was able to partake in the gift giving in both the US and the DR.

My most daring purchase was something I planned to buy long before heading back Stateside. Quite often groups of American missionaries pass through my community and other area bateyes and almost literally dump gifts into the hands of Dominican children. (This creates a dependency and makes our job harder - but that rant is for another time.) The most prevalent of these gifts are knock-off Barbie dolls that little girls cling to. They spend hours on end combing Barbie’s bleach blonde locks until the have removed each and every hair on the doll’s head and lose interest. Not even batey children want a bald Barbie. The doll is always the same: white skinned with blonde hair and impossible measurements.

The gift I planned to buy each of my 3 young host nieces (ages 8, 6 and 5) was meant to be somewhat of a social experiment. I bought each of them their very own Barbie or baby doll, but each of the dolls had black skin, just like my nieces themselves. I knew that one of two things would occur.

1) The girls would love their dolls and relish the fact that the dolls ‘looked like them’ in some way.

2) The girls would be quick to label the dolls as ‘ugly’ or in some way inferior to the cheap white Barbies they have grown accustomed to.

I once watched a video in a college class dealing with this exact issue. When given a choice between white and black dolls, both white American and African American children overwhelming choose the white doll. They say it’s better, it’s prettier, it's nicer and generally preferable to the other. I was interested to know that while this may hold true in a multi-racial United States of America, would it also ring true in a developing nation of dark-skinned people?

While I had obviously hoped for scenario 1 to take place, I knew that the more likely reaction was that of scenario 2. And, lamentably, scenario 2 is exactly what unfolded. The 8 and 6 year-old nieces feigned interest in their Disney Princess Barbie for a moment before quickly moving on to the white Barbie knock-off their parents had gifted them. The 5 year-old wasted not a second to label her doll as fea (ugly) and has never touched it since. Experiment failed.

Unwanted dolls aside, my host family generally enjoyed their gifts and a successful holiday was had by all.

Un Año Nuevo

How it can possibly be the year 2011 right now I really don’t know. Upon joining Peace Corps many future volunteers, myself included, look ahead thinking two years is such a long time and here I am with 10 months left to go not knowing where the time went. This experience is passing by at warp speed.

The past month has only accelerated the feeling that life is passing by too quickly. I spent some time in the US for the holidays. I just couldn’t go one more year without a White Christmas or knowing what it felt like to be cold. It was great to see the snow and feel the cold and even greater to leave knowing I wouldn’t have to drive in it and deal with it for the next 3 months.

After some very welcome R&R in the States, my younger sister came and visited me here in the DR for a couple weeks. We traveled around the entire country, jumped off waterfalls, hung out in bateyes, hit the beach, camped in the clouds, celebrated a New Year and her 20^th birthday. It was a whirlwind of a trip and a great way to kick off 2011.

Now it’s back to the grind and trying to get as much as possible accomplished before these last 10 months disappear as quickly as the first 17 did.

I'm usually not one to make New Year's Resolutions, but this year it seems almost necessary as my time here ticks away.

One thing I really hope to do is the write and blog more often so as to better document this experience and share my life here with people back home. This is a resolution I am pretty confident I can do.

Another is to start weaning myself off of meat. I am far too weak to become a full-fledged vegetarian, but I would certainly like to start eating less meat before my impending arrival back in the US of A. I'll start out as a weekday (okay, maybe 4 days a week) vegetarian and go from there. This resolution may be harder to uphold.

I would resolve (as most everyone does) to exercise more but I know myself too well for that. Playing basketball and volleyball in the batey will just have to be enough.

And lastly I intend to spend more time in my site and focus on the community and the things we are trying to achieve. I've had some great fun in this country and traveled a lot. In the next 10 months I want to focus more on work and less on play.

Happy New Year - Feliz Año Nuevo - Welcome 2011

Deportes Para la Vida

My last big hurrah before heading home for the holidays was a 5-day camp/training to learn all about Deportes Para la Vida (Sports for Life). Deportes Para la Vida (DPV) is a Dominican offspring of Grassroot Soccer, an American NGO that “uses the power of soccer to educate, inspire and mobilize communities to stop the spread of HIV.” Grassroot Soccer uses soccer and athletics to educate about HIV/AIDS in the developing world, primarily in Africa.

Deportes Para la Vida works towards the same goal in the DR. As soccer takes a backseat to baseball and is not embraced by Dominicans as in most all other countries, DPV is working to educate using a number of different sports including baseball, basketball and volleyball.

The training was the longest I have participated in as a volunteer. Each of the 8 or so volunteers brought 2-3 youth leaders from our communities to receive the training along with us. The goal was to train the DPV curriculum to Volunteers and our youth so that we can return to our communities and multiply the information to our youth.

DPV consists of many fun and educational activities and will be a really fun course to do with Dominican youth. Along with the two youth from my site who attended the training with me, we plan on teaching the course during P.E. each week in our local school and drop some HIV knowledge while having some fun.

Chicas Brillantes

A few weeks back I had the opportunity to attend an intercambio with 24 young Dominican chicas aged 11-18. I was the only male at the event along with the 24 girls and 4 female volunteers.

The intercambio was for Chicas Brillantes, a Peace Corps initiative for young Dominican girls. The overnight intercambio featured sessions about the female body, art activities, volleyball games and much more.

Chicas Brillantes is a girls club that many volunteers do that covers topics about adolescence and young womanhood and includes many interesting activities and opportunities for young Dominican girls. The girls clubs work year round in anticipation of their seminal event, Camp G.L.O.W. (Girls Leading Our World), which takes place each summer.

Verdict is still out as to whether I will be starting my very own girls group in the months to come. The intercambio reinforced the importance of working with girls in this machismo culture but also how many headaches may come with working with girls aged 11-14. Vamos a ver.

Ants Marching

Last February, a barancon housing more than 40 people burned down here in my site. All of those 40+ people were displaced and a 2-year-old girl died of smoke inhalation. The cause of the fire was a candle, being used during one of many daily power outages, that tipped over and eventually reached the highly flammable zinc roof. The displaced were forced to move into already overcrowded homes with extended family and neighbors and have lived in these uncomfortable conditions for the past 9 months.

A barancon is a barrack commonly found in Dominican bateyes. The barracks were built for the migratory Haitian sugar cane workers and are simply a long concrete buildings divided into several individual housing units. Many units are nothing more than one 10x12 room where entire families live. The vast majority of people in my community live in barracks.

In response to the burned barrack, the community began to construct a new one in August, with economic backing from USAID and Save the Children, to help ease the overcrowding that was going on in homes since the fire.

After months of construction followed by weeks of institutional bureaucracy, people here were able to move into their new homes this week. Watching the move was like watching ants march. The entire community got involved and were carrying suitcases, tables, chairs, mattresses, televisions, etc, in an endless flow until all people and their belongings had been moved and situated in their new homes.

While overcrowding is still a problem, it is much less of a problem this week and a number of families are happy to be in new homes.

People moving into the new barancon as seen from my porch

Eliecel moving into his new casa.

Mwen Pale Kreyól

It has been a long, educational and stormy couple of weeks. After days spent despedir-ing a group of good friends (Felicidades 517-08-02), learning all about the ugliness of cholera and celebrating Halloween and one year as a Peace Corps Volunteer (Felicidades 517-09-02) in a beautiful beach house, I learned a new language in 3½ days. Mwen te aprann pale Kreyól.

Twice each year Peace Corps DR offers a weeklong Haitian Creole course for volunteers living in bateyes, near the border or in communities with a large Haitian/Creole-speaking population. As a volunteer now living in a batey, I got the opportunity to participate.

The training is traditionally held in a batey in the southern part of the country but due to the imminent wrath of Hurricane Tomás, this year we were sequestered to a neighborhood of Santo Domingo for the week. After the initial frustration and disappointment of having Creole training in the Capital and not in a batey full of Creole speakers, training got underway as Hurricane Tomás arrived.

Creole is a very basic language and in less than 4 days I feel like I got a firm grasp on the grammatical structure and some basic vocab. I have already sought out two Creole speakers in my community, ages 6 and 7, to practice with on a regular basis until I get brave enough chat with adults.

As Creole training ended, the brunt of Tomás, the first hurricane to make landfall on the island in my time here, was arriving in the DR. All volunteers living in various high-risk areas of the country, including the Capital where I was, were consolidated to hotels for safety and security reasons.

While hurricanes are not something volunteers look forward to, consolidation due to hurricanes is something all volunteers dream of. Air-conditioned hotel rooms with endless hot water, flushing toilets and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Magical. The amount of weight gained by volunteers during consolidation must be an astonishingly high number. It was a very relaxing couple of days spent with good friends before returning to volunteer reality.

God Hates Haiti

As anyone who owns a computer, television or reads a newspaper well knows, cholera has come to Haiti. This ugly bacterium has arrived on the island of Hispaniola and is wreaking havoc on those living across the border and still displaced by last winter’s earthquake. As if living in makeshift shantytowns wasn’t trouble enough, Haitians now must concern themselves with the threat of fatal, white diarrhea. Can these people ever catch a break?

As we share an island with Haiti, all Peace Corps volunteers in the DR were brought to the capital last week to have a crash course training on avoiding cholera when it eventually and inevitably makes its way across the fronterra and into la República Dominicana. Hay que prepararse.

As if an earthquake, cholera and a long history of colonialism, slavery, dictatorship and abject poverty weren’t enough, a potential hurricane moving across the Caribbean has changed course and has aimed its ugly head directly for Port-au-Prince. The lack of proper shelter will make for a serious disaster if and when the storm strikes areas of the country already devastated by the earthquake and currently suffering from a cholera outbreak. Dios odia a Haiti.